If I were a city, I’d be Paris. From the first time I went at 17, I felt at home. I’ve been back several times over the past two decades since, and each time I embark on a new journey, exploring a new part of the city, discovering a new treasure.
I used to take a month sabbatical to Paris—what I called my month of creative inspiration and exploration—where I’d go to Paris by myself, aimlessly stroll the streets, wander into museums and art exhibits, eat lots of cheese, and speak bad French. I’d travel to other parts of Europe to visit friends and cities, but I’d always base myself out of Paris. It just felt like a refuge of sorts for me, where I could reset spiritually and creatively.
I recently returned to Paris for a week and wanted to share some of my favorite things to do, see, and eat in the City of Light.
Paris is a hub of art, architecture, and fashion. That said, it wouldn’t be Paris without some shopping. The couture capital, Paris takes fashion très seriously—from the designer-store-lined Avenue Montaigne (think Rodeo Drive or Madison Avenue, but with French accents) to the trendier Maje, Sandro, and Isabel Marant French-founded boutiques and carefully curated vintage stores of Saint-Germain and the Marais, two uber hip areas of Paris. I once ended up at a Nina Ricci sample sale where I bought an off-the-runway couture dress for about 100 euros. Another time I stumbled across a vintage store in Saint-Germain that exclusively sold Chanel and Hermès handbags. I had made a wrong turn on a cobblestone street and there it was—I wish I had written down the name.
I highly suggest simply taking a walk around Paris and allowing yourself to get lost, discover a cafe, sit down and have a coffee (or a glass of wine), and take in all the scenery that Paris has to offer, from the buildings and architecture to the people. There’s nothing like exploring this magical city and all it has to offer.
Another must: the French pharmacies, because, well, just trust me—they are DIVINE.
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Museums, art galleries, and architecture top the list. But even just a stroll along the Seine (that’s the river in Paris) can be a cultural experience. From the Eiffel Tower to Notre Dame to Les Invalides, which houses Napoleon’s tomb, to the Tuileries Garden (right near the Louvre and Musée de l’Orangerie), so much of Paris’ history and culture can be appreciated on foot—and through simple sightseeing.
As far as art goes, here’s my list of musts:
Musée de l’Orangerie – If you’re into Monet, then this should be your first stop. L’Orangerie is home to Monet’s Water Lilies masterpieces, which literally cover the walls of two massive rooms. Weekends are crowded so, if able, I suggest viewing on a weekday. The first time I walked into this room, I had a truly spiritual experience. It’s difficult to explain how paintings can bring emotions to the surface and tears to the eyes, but if it’s happened to you, you’ll never forget it.
@sarahrhoward
Picasso Museum – If you’re a fan of Picasso, this museum is a must. They recently had a Calder/Picasso exhibit, but sadly I missed it. On top of their exhibitions, they always have a permanent collection of Picasso masterpieces. The museum is in the Marais, so it’s a quick walk to cafes and shopping. Make a day of it.
Musée d’Orsay – Housed in an old train station, this building is one of my favorites in Paris. The permanent collection is stunning, but their rotating exhibits are always incredible as well. On my last trip, I saw a wonderful Tracey Emin exhibit, and they have an Edgar Degas one now (so jealous to be missing this). There are also plenty of Degas paintings and sculptures in the permanent collection, including The Ballet Class, one of my absolute favorite paintings.
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Centre Pompidou – The exterior of this building is as unique as the interior. The museum has a gorgeous restaurant called Brasserie Georges on the rooftop with epic views of the city. Check to make sure there’s an exhibit you’re interested in, but it’s also a quick walk from the Picasso Museum, so easy to do both in the same day.
Rodin Museum – When the weather is nice, the sculpture garden is truly special and inspiring. One of my favorite places in Paris.
The Louvre – I don’t go often as it’s filled with tourists, but Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa is worth the lines. So if you’ve never seen it, go—just make sure you don’t walk past it! The painting is much smaller in person that you’d expect.
@sarahrhoward
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I always stay with family friends in the 7th arrondissement, right near the Eiffel Tower and École Militaire and a quick walk to Saint-Germain (and just over the Seine from Avenue Montaigne). It’s incredibly central and has a ton of sightseeing.
But if you’re looking for luxury, Plaza Athénée on Avenue Montaigne is true Parisian style. Or try Hotel Costes, which has one of my favorite bars in Paris.
@sarahrhoward
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It’s next to impossible to find a bad meal in Paris. Every street corner has another cafe better than the next, with fresh pastries, cheese, and wine. But for meals that will leave an impression, here’s my list.
Ferdi – A tiny restaurant in the 1st arrondissement, Ferdi has become a stylish stop for the fashion set. It has maybe 10 tables and is casual in both appearance and food. If you’re into meat, the cheeseburger is a favorite. It’s one of my absolute favorite restaurants in Paris. Book in advance.
L’Avenue – Be prepared to see the fashion set, as it’s located directly next to every major designer boutique (Dior, Balenciaga, Gucci, Saint Laurent, and more). While the food is merely decent, the vibe is electric. On a nice day, lunch on the terrace is perfection.
Le Cherche Midi – Located in St. Germain, this Italian bistro reminds me of a neighborhood haunt that you’d find in New York’s West Village. It’s a true local place with Parisian flair and delicious food. Great for weekend brunch or dinner and a stroll around Saint-Germain.
Café de Flore – Probably the most famous cafe in Saint-Germain. Sit outside, order the goat cheese salad or a quiche, and take in the passersby.The waiters speak English, and you’ll notice that it’s more of a tourist crowd than a Parisian one.
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L’Ami Louis – I’m not a foodie, but the first time I ate at L’Ami Louis, I understood why food is an art form. Book in advance as this is the place to see and be seen (although the interior is unusually casual)—from dignitaries to celebrities, L’Ami Louis is probably one of the most famous restaurants in Paris.
Caviar Kaspia – Another Fashion Week haunt, Caviar Kaspia has delicious food and a fashionable crowd. I don’t eat caviar, but the baked potato was the best one I’ve ever had in my life. Definitely worth the hype.
@sarahrhoward
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As far as bars and nightclubs are concerned, as I mentioned, I like the bar at Hotel Costes. It’s always an interesting—and international—crowd. Le Montana is another popular destination; it’s more of a club vibe with a DJ and dance floor downstairs. If you’re looking for something under the radar, try Castor Club, a nondescript wooden door that opens into a small speakeasy-style bar in the 6th arrondissement with incredible cocktails and equally remarkable attitude.
